FAQs

Thermal fracturing in glass is a phenomenon where distortion occurs in a part of window glass due to changes in temperature which leads to the glass cracking when it cannot bear the distortion anymore. Thermal fracturing can occur in any type of glass.
The surface of window glass can raise in temperature by being exposed directly to sunlight. However, parts of the glass that are in shade due to plants or hidden parts inside the window frame don’t rise in temperature in the same way. Due to this, the areas with higher temperature start to swell while the areas with lower temperature stay as they are, and thermal fracturing occurs. This phenomenon can be said to apply to all forms of glass, however there’s a greater chance of it occurring especially in glass with a vacuum structure or glass with a structure that includes gas, which are known as wired glass or pare glass.
For heat-insulation sheets, because heat doesn’t escape easily from the glass surface, the difference in temperature between the glass surface and the inside of the frame becomes significant, making thermal fracturing in window glass a possibility. For wired glass (metallic wires), the state of the glass’s cross section and the swelling of the metal within the glass – where the heat has entered inside the frame – has a strong effect and makes the glass highly likely to fracture. The special types of glass mentioned above are glass types that cannot be used.

For absorbing condensation, we recommend strong condensation-absorbing tape.

By sticking on this tape, the condensation that runs down the glass will be properly soaked up and evaporated.
Also, for controlling the occurrence of condensation, we recommend the window glass heat-insulation sheet series.
Condensation on the surface of window glass occurs due to indoor vapor in the air cooling off on the glass surface. The window glass heat-insulation sheet prevents the temperature of the indoor surface of the window glass dropping in order to help control the occurrence of condensation.

The occurrence of condensation is dependent on the environmental conditions inside the room (the difference from the outside temperature, the humidity indoors, etc), therefore in some cases it may not be able to completely stop the condensation.
Particularly if you use a heater or humidifier that lights a fire, the humidity will rise, making condensation more likely to occur.

Specialized glass, such as IR reflecting glass, heat-absorbing glass (Low-E glass), wired glass, or double glazing glass, has the risk of shattering due to changes in temperature, so it can’t be used on them.
For windows with the above glass types, please use “Insulation Film for Windows, Transparent (product number: E0590) that sticks to the window frame.

The water-adhesion type cannot be used with frosted glass or glass with rough or uneven surfaces, but it can be stuck on with a double-sided sticker. In such a case, please use “Adhesive Window Glass Insulation Sheet for Fixing” (sold separately). If using a double-sided sticker or tape, due to the risk of causing glue stains, it’s best to reapply it every six months.

The back side has an unevenness if you touch it. The other smoother side is the side that sticks to the glass (the water-adhesion surface). If it has curled peculiarly, it’s the inner part of the curl.
If you stick it on the wrong side it mostly won’t stick and will peel off straight away.

It’s referring to the small sticker with “water-adhesion surface” written on it. The side with this sticker on it is the side that sticks to the glass (the water-adhesion surface). Please cut the sheet so that it matches the size of the window glass. Then, after verifying the side that sticks to the window glass, peel off this small sticker and stick the sheet onto the glass.

It is not designed to prevent glass scattering.

Apologies, but it cannot be used like that.

It’s very likely that it won't be able to stick to the top of Glass Shatterproofing Film, and even if you were to try there's a risk that resin marks may remain when peeling off the sheet or the Glass Shatterproofing Film may come off.

Please verify the points below.

・Before sticking it on, did you clean the glass surface?

If detergent, oil or wax are left on the glass surface, the sheet may not stick properly to it. Using a chemical rag or wiping the glass with newspaper can also cause it to peel off.

・Are you trying to stick the proper side of the sheet onto the glass? (The proper side is the water-adhesion side or the inner side when it curls)

If the back side of the sheet is stuck on, the sheet will peel off. Also note that the clear type doesn't have a front or back.

・Is the sheet curling excessively?

Place the sheet down on a flat surface with the curling side facing upwards, and make it flatten again by blowing hot air from a hair dryer kept 30cm away from it. If you blow hot air on the sheet while it’s stuck to the glass, the glass may shatter, so please ensure hot air is not blown onto the glass surface.

・Did you spray enough water on the glass?

Using a sprayer, spray the glass with a lot of water so that it’s dripping down, and then stick the sheet on.

・Have you ever applied condensation-prevention spray to the glass?

If there’re substances that repel water remaining on the glass, this will cause the sheet to peel off. Please clean the glass surface well.

・Is the sheet exposed to wind?

As the sheet contains no strong adhesive like glue, it can peel off if a considerable force is applied to it, so please try sticking it on once again. If you need more adhesive strength, you can also use double-sided tape to help it stay there. In such cases, please use Nitoms’ "Adhesive Window Glass Insulation Sheet for Fixing". Stick the tape across the whole perimeter so that it borders the glass surface that the sheet sticks to. Furthermore, please be advised that glue stains may occur if the tape is stuck on for a longer time than the recommended period.

As it doesn’t contain any glue, you can peel it off by pinching the edge and pulling. If there should be any marks left on the glass, please scrape them off with either a glass cleaner liquid or melamine foam for glass.

In places with good sunlight it will dry within 2 to 3 days, but in places with little exposure to sunlight it can take several more days for the water to dry. In long cases it has taken around a month. As this doesn’t make any difference to the insulation effect, please wait until it has dried.

Its weight won’t be able to be supported by just water-adhesion, so it will come off. It can be stuck on using double-sided tape, however when peeling off there may be some glue stains on the glass or the sheet may not come off easily.

Unlike when using glue adhesion, the sheet will peel off due to the effects from wind and rain.
The sheet will also get dirty and age quicker, so please ensure to stick it on the indoor side of the glass.

It’s hard to say as it’s case by case, but apart from the “Window Glass Insulation Sheet (Heat-Generating Type)” it’s known to not darken the room very much.
In general, when visible light transmission goes below 50% most people feel that it becomes darker, however our products mostly keep the visible light transmission above 50%.

Due to the effects of ultraviolet rays and heat, there is a risk the film may harden or peel off, so please aim to replace it each season.

Clear-types basically don’t have a reverse side so you can stick it on with either side. However if its shape has curled, please stick the inner-side of the curl to the glass. If you stick on the outer-side, the edges will come off, allowing the whole sheet to peel off easily.

The heat-insulation sheet is a product that insulates by creating air space, however because it’s made of tunnel-like structures (straw shapes), if stuck on vertically the warm air will escape from the top and the insulation effect risks being decreased.

Due to the effects of ultraviolet rays and heat, there is a risk that the film will harden or peel off.
Please aim to replace every season.
If you leave it stuck on while summer comes, the sheet will heat up and the area around the window will become hot, so once it becomes warm in spring please peel it off.

Due to the pressure from the tape being wound up, it may be thinner than the indicated thickness when you unwind the tape, however after a day its thickness will be restored. As the tape can become thinner the closer it is to the center of the roll and also take time to restore, it has been given excess length.

It has a semi-independent open bubble structure that is both waterproof and has cushioning properties.

It has low compression pressure and excellent waterproofing.

The main areas of use as per tape are: M-type (Product No: G0101) front door; P-type (Product No: G0102) in-room door; D-type (Product No: G0103) in-room sliding door; V-type (Product No: G0104) bath/shower door and hinged door.

M-type (Product No: G0101) can handle gaps of 2mm to 3.5mm. P-type (Product No: G0102) can handle gaps of 2.5mm to 4mm. D-type (Product No: G0103) can handle gaps of 3.5mm to 5mm. V-type (Product No: G0104) can handle gaps of 2.5mm to 5mm.

It has a completely independent bubble structure that excels at water stoppage. Its outstanding weather resistance (it doesn’t become ragged over a long period of time) makes it suitable for outdoor usage.

It has a semi-independent open bubble structure due to its waterproofing and cushioning properties.
It has low compression pressure and excellent waterproofing.

The tape does come as two. Please separate them vertically from the edge in order to use them.

The main areas of use as per tape are: M-type (Product No: E0162) front door; P-type (Product No: E0141, E0142) in-room door; D-type (Product No: E0191) in-room sliding door; V-type (Product No: E0192) bath/shower door and hinged door.